My first Surfing Experience – Why I don’t have any pictures on the surfboard!!
Excited and nervous, I ran towards my hostel from where the cab dropped me. I took a cab at 9 am from Ubud to Kuta where my hostel and surfing class was - Pro Surf School and Hostel.
It took almost 3 hours to cover a distance of 1 hour because of heavy traffic.
The surfing class was to begin at 12 and it was already time when I reached my hostel. I literally threw my luggage at the reception and walked towards where rest of the students were standing. I quickly changed and now the whole group was ready for the initial surfing instructions.
After almost an hour class, we took our surfing boards and walked to the beach.
Now a little about me before I proceed - I am scared of the waves
Though from outside, I tried to be very confident, my heart throbbed every time I saw a huge wave coming towards me. And all my faith in me also swept away with the waves. And there I was, off the surfboard and in the water, trying to come up, struggling for a breath!!
But that's not the end of the story, during the instructions, we were told about RIP. No, it is not "Rest in Peace", but it will surely mean Rest in Peace if you don't know the waters that well.
So what actually is RIP? A rip is a current of water that moves away from the shore. The moment you enter the rip, you get pushed away from the shore and no matter how hard you try to find the ground and swim hard, you will just get swayed away unless you swim to the left or the right. And once you are out of the rip, you start swimming towards the shore.
So, yes I along with a few other was caught in a rip. So the little time I had to overcome my fear of the waves, I was caught in an unwanted region of the sea.
Btw, I was able to catch a few waves successfully, a very few I mean!!
While this is all I have from the pictures clicked during the lesson, I really hope I do better in my next class!